"Surprise! Before you can Wax, you must Polish"

Nothing makes for more waxing frustration than a black car.  Here are some tips that have resulted in several national concours championships.

Polish....Wax, it's all the same isn't it?

    First some definitions.  For most people, polishing is a process that uses abrasives to actually take a thin (VERY thin) layer of your paint away.  It is during the POLISH step that all the shine should appear on your car.  WAX is used solely to protect that shine from the elements. For most people, a pure WAX will contain zero abrasives.  It will have just the product necessary to protect your paint, and enhance shine. Some companies call their non-abrasive product a polish. They can do that, but you should read the labels and be aware of what you are buying.

    Some products claim to shine and protect in one step, but they always compromise the process, somewhere in that mix.  I prefer to get quality products that do one thing at a time.

Polish:

    Before starting, ask your self if you want to do this by hand or machine.  I prefer to work by hand because it is much harder to burn through, or damage the paint.  If you have a good buffer, and are experienced with it, then go ahead.  If not, leave the high speed machines to experienced pro's.  Many detail shops ruin a finish by using a high speed buffer EVERY time.  It's just not necessary in most cases..

    To get a quality result, the paint must shine before you wax.  Using a pure wax to add shine to a dull finish WILL work, for a short period of time, but it's just a Band-Aid.  As the wax product wears off (and all products will wear off, no matter what the guarantee) the fine scratches in the paint/clearcoat will reappear.  For that show quality shine, the paint should have all the shine you would like to see, before you ever apply any wax.  In theory, you should not be able to tell you are applying the wax,  if you have polished your car correctly.  Wax should only provide protection.  The black car above had such great factory paint that applying top quality Carnuba wax would make zero difference in the gloss on the paint.  That is when you know you've done the job right!

    The amount of damage in your finish will let you know what product to use.  After giving your car a complete wash, with a mild detergent like Liquid Ivory, use a clay product to remove the major impurities in the paint.  The paint should now be smooth to the touch.

    Next run your fingernail over the paint in several spots where there are fine scratches.  If you can feel the scratch, a more aggressive polish or maybe even a  true rubbing compound will be needed.  If you are lucky enough to not feel or see any fine lines you can move to the last step.

    STEP ONE:  For scratches you can feel, use a more aggressive polish or compound.  For now I like Meguires products.  Yep, I am recommending a product I don't carry.  Look over the line of Meguires polish products at a body shop/paint shop supply store.  Read the label and it will tell which product to use.  For major problems, you might need to use two or three steps.  Always err on the side of too mild, rather than too harsh.
    Remember, the paint layer is not very thick, especially on factory paint.  Clearcoat (which is just clear paint) is also very thin.  If your "problem" goes to the metal or through clearcoat or paint to primer, then don't try to rub it out, use a touch-up paint to fill the scratch and 1000 grit or finer sandpaper to smooth the area carefully, before polishing.

    STEP TWO:  Use a medium or fine polish for cars with minor scratches.  Use these after the more aggressive compounds of step one if you need that step.  Be sure to change the direction of your motion by machine or hand to prevent creating lines along the same direction.  Rub at 45 and 90 degree angles, using both straight and circular motions, the point is to smooth out the imperfections.  Don't concentrate on one area too much.

    STEP THREE:  A very fine polish should be the last step.  This polish should be so fine that a non-clearcoated black car would put almost zero "color" on a white polishing rag.  Take your time and don't rub too hard.  Let the polish do the work.  The best detail shops get their customer cars to this point and keep them there so that they only need to do a quick final polish at every detail, then apply wax.  This way you can polish for decades without fear of rubbing through the paint or clearcoat. 

    I offer the very best, final polish product I can find.  Our GLAZE will give your paint the best show car look possible.  Remember that factory paints with built in "orange peel" will NEVER get that super wet-sanded and buffed mirror finish that true show cars have.  Any wax/polish product that claims to do this, is just flat out telling a lie.  They can't possibly fill in the waves, or orange peel, and without smoothing that wavy look, they can't give that show car shine!    

    Look along the "sight lines" of the car.  Your final polish and later wax, should be along the lines that people will use to see the car.   Basically along the long axis of the car.  Your car should now have all the shine it will ever need, and be ready for application of the wax that will keep it looking that way for weeks.

Email: dmall@mwonline.net